In the historic Etruscan village of Cortona, about a one-hour drive Northeast from Montalcino, some of the world’s greatest syrah is biodynamically farmed and crafted by Syrah-obsessed Tuscan legend, Stefano Amerighi. Often dismissed by Italian wine lovers as an international variety, the history of Syrah in the area of Cortona goes deep — to the fall of the Medici era in the 1700s. The Cortona Syrah DOC was established in 1999, with Stefano Amerighi leading the charge in establishing the zone. In establishing his own vineyards and winery in 2000, Amerighi carefully selected his site in Poggiobello di Farneta, in the Chiuso di Cortona, the final hills descending from the town. Stefano collected vine material from friends in the Rhone and propagated via massale selection over his 7.5 hectares of Syrah vineyards. The complex stony soils and landscape are similar to those of the Northern Rhone. 

A longtime student of the teachings of Rudolf Steiner, Amerighi established his biodiverse farm and vineyards utilizing natural viticultural and biodynamic principles. Pruning and all work in the ground is done in accordance with the lunar and planetary cycles. Biodynamic treatments and work in the vineyards create a living, resilient ecosystem. These practices in the vineyard allow for full maturation of grapes and for vinification free of additions in the cellar. All 40 plots of Syrah undergo separate fermentations. Depending on vintage, whole bunches are used, while some vintages require destemming. No yeasts are added to fermentations, and fermentations occur without the addition of sulfur or temperature control. The Syrahs are aged in a combination of concrete, glass, tava amphora and large neutral cask. 

A thrilling project to discover, most especially for lovers of Northern Rhone Syrah — the first smell of the first glass will likely make the hair on your arm stand up in excitement, and make you second guess whether this wine is Italian or French. Stefano Amerighi is truly a lifelong disciple of Syrah, proving that Cortona has not only historical relevance for the variety, but can produce some of the greatest examples of it as well.